It's miles away but with 50-minute facials and papaya body wraps at under £15 you can indulge.
Tembok Spa, which opened in the summer of 2007, is situated in northeast Bali’s untouristy volcanic coast with beaches as black and sparkly as coal-dust. The treatments incorporate natural (mostly edible) ingredients, freshly prepared outside the treatment rooms. You can also attend the Spa Academy, where the 75-year-old Kak Tis will teach you Balinese philosophy and massage techniques.
When you arrive you are offered a choice of “path”, balance, creativity or vigour, depending on how active you want to be. My creativity path included a range of treatments — facials and massages — but also weaving dried leaves into tiny nesting birds (yes, it’s as tricky as it sounds) and a beach walk to pick up objects that inspired. Even someone like me, who can’t tell their art from their elbow, can spot a pretty shell.
Spa Village Resort Tembok, Jalan Singaraja-Amlapura No.100 Desa Tembok, ejakula Buleleng, Bali, Indonesia ( +60 3 2783 1000; www.spavillage.com/tembokbali).