In the three years I lived in Indonesia I sampled massages across the archipelago, from Aceh (long before the tsunami, in the middle of the bloody insurrection), where two women in strict Muslim headscarves gave me a good pummelling, to Bali, where there are now dozens of establishments offering all kinds of massage. Catering to luxury-minded tourists, these often offer strange accoutrements, such as yoghurt and hot stones, a far cry from the sandy beach massages hawked by insistent iron-fingered women along the Kuta strip.
One Bali old-timer, Cozy, has now even opened an extremely popular franchise establishment in East Timor, and there are Cozys in Jakarta and Lombok. Here are four Balinese massage establishments I have frequented and enjoyed.
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